"
I did have to give a little push to my rear fan for it to start, so that's a little odd..."
This is because the "bearings" in the fan are clogged/dirty. A new one would be in order. If you can't afford a new fan, some extra life can be provided by removing the fan and cleaning/lubing it.
If it's a case fan, disconnect the fan lead (paying attention as to the proper connector, and which way it attaches to said motherboard connector). Some are two wire, some are three. The third wire is the "sensor" wire which reports RPM to the bios. Then remove (unscrew) the fan from the enclosure. (Again, paying attention to it's orientation. Case fans (at the rear) usually blow OUT. Fans in the front of enclosures usually SUCK IN. There are exceptions based upon enclosure design, but this has to do with air flow from different fans "crossing" or interferring with the air flow from another fan. Things have to work in conjunction, not against each other. ie; Fans shouldn't blow directly towards each other.) Once it's out, brush off any dust/gunk that you couldn't reach before. When it's cleaned....
On the back of the motor, there's usually a (round) sticker providing the info for the fan. (Voltage, etc.) This can be peeled off exposing the shaft in the centre. A quick shot (not flooding) with a (nozzle-directed) solvent/lubricant (WD-40) and hand spinning the fan usually frees it. Once the fan is spinning freely again, a drop of ~light~ duty (3 In 1 Electric Motor) oil will lube the bearings and provide some additional life to the fan. Then clean off any of the afore mentioned solvent and any excess oil from the "sticker" surface and cover the surface with a small piece of plastic electrical tape cut somewhat to fit to reseal the shaft. Reinstall the fan and connect the lead.
I forgot to mention that a weak Power supply also contributes to these type of problems. If this machine is a proprietary machine (ie; Brand_Name - Dell, Compaq, SONY, IBM, Lenovo, Hewlitt Packard, Gateway, Packard Bell, etc) and you still have the P.S. that came with your machine, and you've added components, it's probably insufficient at providing clean/adequate power any longer. Proprietary machine power supplies are of "just enough" wattage to power the original equipment. It boils down to manufacturing costs. "This is the machine, this is enough to run it". When you start adding peripheral cards in slots, bigger video cards, hard disks, CD/DVD burners, you're seriously taxing the original P.S..
If this slow/stiff fan is the power supply fan, the above procedure will work the same.
CAUTION is advised here. If you have never worked inside of electronics enclosures before, or are not completely comfortable doing the following, don't do it. Get a new power supply.
That said.......
The P.S. must be (disconnected of course) and removed from the enclosure and opened to gain access to the fan. (There will usually be a paper "seal" or two across the enclosure mating surfaces which must be cut to seperate the cover from the main body.)
Once the cover is off, do not put your fingers, or any tools, around the interior components. ONLY handle the fan and it's lead connector if present.
Some fans have a connector just like the motherboard connector, and some are "hard-wired" in. If it has a connector, follow the above procedure to remove the fan and perform the maintenance. If it's hard-wired, remove the mounting screws and "hang" it outside the P.S. enclosure to do the work. (Hang maybe the wrong word, but you should get the idea.) You should have just enough room to get the fan out by tilting it and lifting it. Thoroughly clean off any P.S. vent holes before reassembly. (Remember, P.S. fans blow OUT. On ~all~ fans there are arrowheads embossed on the side showing rotation and air flow direction.)
If you go to all the above effort, don't forget your CPU fan AND heatsink. The fins on a heatsink gather dust and gunk rather quickly. The fans are smaller, but the same principles and methods apply. CPU fans usually blow "up and away" for air flow. (Again, I've seen exceptions. Just note the original orientation before removal.) Heatsinks can usually be left in place. Clean/brush once the fan is pulled from the heatsink. Blow out any disloged dust from the motherboard and case before reassembly. Can be messy, but you can always run the vacuum cleaner across the table and floors when you're done.
"
I have had display issues in the past.... For some reason, the driver for my digital display goes away for no apparent reason and then I have to plug in my analog cable and reload the driver (Viewsonic)."
This may be due to power, heat, corrupted drivers, or bad memory. Process of elimination applies here. Eliminate heat and power requirements first. Then memory, then drivers. All the "good" drivers in the world amount to squat if the memory is having "hiccups".
"
A fatal exception OD occurred at 0028:C000B28A in VXD VMM (01) + 0000A28A."
A word about VMM/VXD errors;
The VMM32.VXD file is built dynamically. When you install windows, a basic file is constructed based upon your hardware and software at the time of installation. As you "progress", adding software and hardware, this file is "updated" to incude the parameters required to run all of these things. So "rebuilding" it usually means a reinstall. (Rebuilding it can be done, but it's an arduous task.) Most "sources" providing answers for these type errors advise a reinstallation.
When you start getting these errors, it's "Uh-Oh".
This can be precluded by a simple measure. (The "scanreg/auto" (or similar wording, I forget, it's been awhile since I ran 98) should be enabled in
msconfig, Startup tab for this to work. (Start, Run, type in
msconfig) It has to do with the "Scanreg/Restore" function of Windows.)
Add the following two seperate lines to the ~very end~ of your C:\Windows\scanreg.ini file;
Files=30,config.sys,autoexec.bat,winboot.ini,io.sys,msdos.sys
Files=11,vmm32.vxdAdd them as the very last two lines. This will add the mentioned files to your Restore Backup files. (Especially the very precious VMM32.VXD file. Winboot.ini (if present) supercedes msdos.sys. Some programs/troubleshooters will add this file. If it's there, fine. If it's not, the entry is ignored, so don't worry about it.) The other files are good to have included as well. The "Restore" function, in it's basic form, only backs up;
system.dat (hardware related database),
user.dat (user selected profiles/parameters, etc),
system.ini (hardware initialization file), and
win.ini (windows environment initialization file).
so having your other "main files" is a good measure. Corrupted msdos.sys files are common occurances.
Your scanreg.ini file should look like this when you're done;
=================================================================
;
; Scanreg.ini for making system backups.
;
;Registry backup is skipped altogether if this is set to 0
Backup=1
;Registry automatic optimization is skipped if this is set to 0
Optimize=1
ScanregVersion=0.0001
MaxBackupCopies=5
;Backup directory where the cabs are stored is
; <windir>\sysbckup by default. Value below overrides it.
; It must be a full path. ex. c:\tmp\backup
;
BackupDirectory=
; Additional system files to backup into cab as follows:
; Filenames are separated by ','
; dir code can be:
; 10 : windir (ex. c:\windows)
; 11 : system dir (ex. c:\windows\system)
; 30 : boot dir (ex. c:\)
; 31 : boot host dir (ex. c:\)
;
;Files=[dir code,]file1,file2,file3
;Files=[dir code,]file1,file2,file3
Files=30,config.sys,autoexec.bat,winboot.ini,io.sys,msdos.sys
Files=11,vmm32.vxd=================================================================
"
It's interesting that you mentioned anti-virus as a culprit as well. Would it be worth suspending mine (Symantec) to see if that could be it?"
Symantec. IMHO - Bloated Resource HOG. It makes your machine run "overtime". (Read - Heat generator, slow downer, etc, etc.) And it's documented in various help forums how it's screwed up many machines by "fixing problems" it's found.
My "opinion" is dump it. Uninstall it. Get rid of it. Send it as far away as you can. Pluto is a good place.
(The Symantec site has a "Removal Tool" which helps get rid of all the things it leaves behind. Yes, it's stubborn. At least they provide this;)
http://service1.symantec.com/SUPPORT/tsgen...005033108162039For an A_V, I recommend
Avast!. It's trouble free, it works great, and it's free.
(An aside; I also recommend
Comodo for a firewall.)
I don't profess to being any kind of spyware/malware expert, but I'm quite sure that
Myway.Mybar
NewDotNet
are "undesirables".